This is a general instruction manual for the creation of weapons for The Kingdom of Anfalas. It will, hopefully, be comprehensive and provide the knowledge necessary for you to make different types of weapons on your own. It will also include techniques usefull in weapon construction. While newer technologies HAVE come along, our techniques create dependably safe, though somewhat heavy weapons. Although I have never used a different technique to create weapons,(or a spell checker), a very reliable source has told me that our techniques are sturdier and more dependable than some of the newer methods. He sited several examples where a weapon has come apart, and where the side of the blade is not amplly padded. So, you want to make a Dagorhir weapon? The first thing you need to decide is how long you want it to be. Use PVC pipe for the core. Before cutting, remember that there will be between 1 and 3 inches of padding on both the pommel and the tip. Adding a stabbing tip increases this length by 3 to 9 inches, depending on the weapon and what type of material you use. When figuring in the handle, remember that there will be 2 inches of pommel at the very bottom of the core. After you have determined how long you want your weapon (a sword will be assumed from here on out), find an appropriate piece of pipe. Make sure that it is of sufficient strength to support your weapon. Pipe strength increases with the PSI rating, and also the diameter. My general test is to place your knee in the middle of a pipe that has been cut to length, and pull as hard as you can on either end. You might even get a friend to help you out. If it doesn't break, then the pipe is probably strong enough. If you make a weapon and later find that the pipe flexes too much, you can reinforce the pipe with a long piece of dowel placed through the handle. Next you must prepare the pipe. Though not absolutely necessary, rounding the cut ends with a file or knife, may be benneficial, especially if you use small diameter caps. (c.l.) The pipe is wrapped with duct tape. Do not tare the tape until you reach the bottom. If you do it on accident, it's OK..but don't tare it intentionally. Start at one end, by wrapping an even ring around twice. Then begin wrapping diagonally down the pipe. There should be 1/4 to 1/2 overlap between wraps. When you reach the bottom, wrap around twice. Now you can tare the tape. The ends must be capped. Find two washers or coins that are approximately the same diameter as the pipe. Before we go any further, I should probably say something about contact cement. Contact Cement (here after refered to as "CC", "Cc" or "cc") is a nifty little concoction that allows porus surfaces to be glued together with relative strength. To use it, apply a layer to both surfaces that you want glued, wait for 5 to 10 minutes, and then press the surfaces together firmly for 20 seconds. These times are subject to weather conditions, (humidity and temperature) as well as age of your cc, affect how fast and how well the cc will bond. Before applying cc, you should dry fit your pieces. There are few things more boggeling than trying to figure out what to do with a sword which is missing 2 inches on the bottom. CC should be applied so that it throughly covers the surface to be glued. It should NOT be dripping off, nor should it be barely visible. Foam absorbs glue, and different types will require varying amounts. One of the best applicators I have found is a small piece of pipe insulation cut in half. You can dip the end into the CC and then controllably apply it to the surfaces. PLEASE don't feel that it is necessary to DUNK your applicator into the can of CC...simply dipping the end in will suffice. You can tell when the glue is dry because it is somewhat stickey to the touch, depending on how much is on your hands, and it s not goopy. Be carefull with your clothing! CC does not come out easily, if at all. If you do manage to get some on your clothes, try rubbing the spots with mineral spirits or paint thiner BEFORE you wash them. Once this stuff goes through the dryer it is impossible to get out. When finished working, you will undoubtedly find that your hands are covered in CC. Again mineral spirits or paint thinner might help, but you will likely be washing your hands at every free chance you get trying to peel bits of rubber off them. Its all part of the fun. The specifics of your can of CC may vary from what I have discussed here, BE SURE TO READ THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE CAN CAREFULLY, and don't use CC in an enclosed space. That having been said, back to the project. As you may recall you were just about to cap the ends of your pipe. Put cc on one side of two washers, and on both ends of the pipe. Lay the washers down CC side up, and support the pipe horizontally so that the ends don't touch your work surface. While waiting for the cc to dry, tear off 2, 2 inch piece of duct tape (DT) and split them down the middle so you have 4, 2 inch long strips. When the CC has dried on both parts, hold the first washer about 2 inches away from the end of the pipe and get it lined up.stick the washer on the end of it while holding the pipe with your other hand. Hold in place for 20 seconds, while pressing firmly. Place one strip of tape over the end and tape it to the core. Place a second strip 90 degrees to the first. Repeat this procedure with the other end of the pipe. The best thing to do next is the pommel. If you have made several swords before, you can wait to do the pommel, but if this is you first time, constructing the pommel will give you a chance to get a feel for the work. Some people prefer to do the pommel, (and the washer) after making the blade so their sword can be balanced properly. Begin by cutting a 2 inch long piece of pipe insulation. This piece should have a large enough inside diameter to fit easily around the wrapped pipe. Split the pipe insulation, either along the seam, or vertically with a knife. Roll the piece backwords and hold it for several seconds. The objective is to make the pipe insulation relatively flat. Once this has been accomplished, put CC on the inside edge of the piece of insulation. Also put cc on the seams and the 2 inches of the end of the core. When the cc has driedto tacky, place one end of the foam on the handle, and wrap it around, pulling so that the foam will reach all the way. be sure to press the seams together. If you messed up and can't get the foam all the way around, cut out a narrow piece to fill any gap. The next step in construction of the pommel is the hard foam on the end. Cut a square of harder foam that will fit over the end of the pipe. By hard foam, I mean ### END ###