From dagorhir Wed Apr 15 20:45:43 1998 Return-Path: Received: by acasun.eckerd.edu (SMI-8.6/SMI-SVR4) id UAA25219; Wed, 15 Apr 1998 20:45:40 -0400 From: dagorhir (Dagorhir Club) Message-Id: <199804160045.UAA25219@acasun.eckerd.edu> Subject: Semitar cores, etc To: goodwisa (Sam Goodwill) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 20:45:38 -0400 (EDT) Cc: leebc (Bryan C. Lee), dagorhir (Dagorhir Club) X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.4 PL25] MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit content-length: 5070 Status: OR SAM! Guess what is the latest topic of conversation onthe BB? Many good ideas. The best scimitar I have seen did not work so well because it was made mostly for looks (look awesome though). Because of this the blade was so big it became a wing and so when you swung it it would change direction with the slightest change of angle. just keep this in mind when you make you blade. but for the core he used PVC and bent it by soaking it in HOT water and when you cant submerge the whole thing you have to just put parts in it. For the build up though use the ideas that Granifar gave. Cars work for heating the blade but are unpredictable. Unless you made a frame. I once saw a scimitar, but it was mainly straight. I think it was two layers of closed cell foam for the base padding, and then assidtional layers were added and shaved to simulate curviture... if you want some real curvature, I'm still not sure how to do that. I've built some Katanas and Nodachis that are just straight. I'd love ti figure out how to curve the cores for them. Perhaps using PVC and heating them slightly enough to curve them and let them cool curved... much like the ideas behind shaping and hardening leather. Any ideas... comments on this? -Scion d'Ur Yup, hello, I finally broke down and am posting a reply to something, so here it goes... There are essentially two ways I have found that work for making weapons with curvature. 1st) Make it straight. Use camping foam if you have access to it, it just works so much better for most weapon classifications. Build up the curve you want with the first two or three layers of foam and then layer on the blade. Using a sharp knife to trim down the ends of camping strips will reduce those unsightly bumps down the length of the blade and will add to the asthetics of the weapon. You can also use the camping to give the back of the weapon some angles which will add to the overall curved look. 2nd) Bending PVC with a heat source also has been fairly effective. Try to use a heat gun if you have access to one, or a gas stove will work in a pinch. Wear gloves, the PVC will get real hot, especially if your trying this for the first time. Try not to burn the core, this will damage the integrity of the PVC. Use slight anlges, drastic curves also tend to break more easily. The problem I have always had with bending PVC is then trying to keep the foam secured to the core. For the most part, foam is straight and likes to remain that way. Well, I hope these ideas help, any questions and I'll do my best to answer them now that I've returned to the computer age... Hold the Dream, Granifar I recieved some instructions on bending PVC from a guy here. He has made several Scimitars. He recommended the use of 1/2" schedule 80 PVC because you get a strong blade at a resonably small diameter. The pipe is available around here (Colorado) for sprinkler systems. It is grey and comes in 3 or 4 foot sections with plumbing threads on the end. He heated this in his overn at low temperature. It seems that this would create some size limitations I will have to ask him how he delt with the problem. He took advantage of the threads on the end of the pipe to secure a string (like a bow) to force the pipe hold the curve as it cooled. I have a piece of schedule 80 PVC in the garage which I have meaning to try this on. Now I feel inspired to get that project going. I will report my results here when I am finished. Seldon Though I have not tried it myself. I have heard of making a plywood frame with some pegs sticking out of it to bend the pvc in the desired curve. Strap the pvc to the board, then leave it in a hot car for a few days in July or August. This should allow you to make bigger swords. Well, I guess I have tried something similar, but not on purpose! I hope your results are better than mine. Badger Dur Demario Sorry, but the thing about Fiberglass is that it is very rigid, and withstands VERY high temperatures - ie: it will burn before it bends. Also, it gets a little brittle at high temps, and will break before it burns. My recomendation for your scimitar (this works well for anything, so all you guys entranced with the idea of big axes, take notes!) is obtain a small piece of wood (balsa would work well for this) and cover it in fiberglass - the kind that you apply yourself (it's availble at most hardware stores) Be sure to use the heavy variety, and put at least 5 layers on, (I would use 10, but you can expirament with it) sand it down, and you've got a lightweight, exceptionally strong core, in whatever shape you want. The fiberglass costs about $3 for a large bag, and the adhesive is about $5. I'll send you more of this thread later. :-) --Vonkar -- Dagorhir Improvisional Battlegamers' Association See our Webpage at http://acasun.eckerd.edu/~dagorhir />>=- /< *[===========((*))||>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>=- \< \>>=-